Kumari

Lonely Planet

Recommended by Lonely Planet 7 th Edition Page no 328, 8th Edition Page no.: 333,
Published Date: Sep 2009

Trekking in the Himalaya 9th Edition Page no: 27,
Published Date: August 2009

 

Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri ExpeditionA beautiful mountain Dhaulagiri is one of the most popular over 8000 meter peaks for climbing in Nepal and its offers a wonderful trek of Dhaulagiri circuit in Annapurna region. The Dhaulagiri Himal lies south of the Tibet and Nepal border culminating high point at its eastern end is Dhaulagiri 1st . This is a seventh highest mountain in the world. Dhaulagiri towers in solitary splendor. This magnificent peak rises as a giant shoulder of shining ice and snow. It gets its name from the Sanskrit word "Dhavala" which means 'white' and 'giri' which means mountain. It was first climbed by K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert & N. Dorji in 1960. Normally, four camps will be fixed for Dhaulagiri climbing. Advance base camp will be set up at 5,300 meter which is used for depositing the stuff and not for camping due to avalanche danger cases. If we could not approach the summit from Camp IV due to bad weather or other reasons, we will have to fix bivouac at 7,900 meter and next day try to push to the summit.

This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but reminded virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. This White Mountain was first climbed in 1960 by the Swiss following the Northeast ridge. Dhaulagiri 1st is buttressed by five ridges and even up until the early 1980's only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed. Dhaulagiri is considered the most interesting peak among the eight thou sanders. In this moment there are more than six different routes established with variations, and the possibility of more. Please write us for excellent trip with us to make your expedition success and memorable.

  • Latitude: 28º 41' 46".
  • Longitude: 83º 29' 43".
  • First time scaled by: Mr. Ernst Forrer on May 13, 1960. SWITZERLAND
  • Normal Ascent Route: North East Ridge

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel Manang.
Day 02: Kathmandu free.
Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Kathmandu – Beni Bazaar by Bus then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Beni – Babi Chaur. Tented Camp
Day 06: Babichaur – Dharapani. Tented Camp
Day 07: Dharapani – Mudi. Tented Camp
Day 08: Muri – Boghara. Tented Camp
Day 09: Boghara – Dovang. Tented Camp
Day 10: Dovang – Pine Forest. Tented Camp
Day 11: Pine Forest – Italian Base Camp. Tented Camp
Day 12: Italian BC – Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Tented Camp
Days 13 – 33: Climbing period of Dhaulagiri. Tented Camp
Day 34: Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Tukuche Glacier. Tented Camp
Day 35: Tukuche Glacier – Yak Kharka. Tented Camp
Day 36: Yak Kharka – Marpha Village. Tented Camp
Day 37: Marpha – Jomsom Bazaar and transfer to tented Camp.
Day 38: Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 39: Kathmandu Free.
Day 40: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Climbing Equipments and Requirements

Personal

  • Down Sleeping Bag 1/1 for ABC and climbing
  • Down Jacket 1
  • Gore-Tex jacket Trouser or any company
  • Climbing boot double best company
  • Trekking Boot 1
  • ICE-axe with Ice hamber 1/2
  • Rucksack 2
  • Crampon 1/2 set
  • Stick 2 set
  • Harness - 1
  • Get up (Boot clover) 1 set
  • Snow Glass - 2
  • Main rope 15 miters
  • ICE Crew - 1
  • Sable small -1
  • Mattress 1
  • Carbine 2 single + 2 lock
  • Head Light - 2
  • Wind Proof Jacket & trouser
  • Down Trouser
  • Wind Proof Trouser
  • Water Bottle
  • Woolen Globe 3 set.
  • Bag Cover
  • Wind mask for climbing
  • Climbing clove 3 best quality
  • Shocks for climbing - 6 pairs
  • Personal Medicine
  • Eight finger
  • Knife

Group

  • Fixed rope
  • Main rope
  • Medicine
  • Oxygen, Mask and regulator
  • Climbing tents, food, fuel, light

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Trip Fact
Trip Duration: 40 Days
Best Time : Oct/ Nov/ March/ April
Grade: Alpine
Max. Altitude: 8,167m.
Culture: Buddhist
Mode of trek: Camping /Tea House
Trip Cost: USD

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